Been POA for the last two days, this morning it might be settling down, my stomach was never before so happy to find a KFC for breakfast. Every time I step foot outside the hotel, I am ambushed by a particularly pushy horse and buggy driver, Mohamed, who I have really grown to dislike. The other night I took a nice, but scam-filled, ride through Luxor with a different driver, Ali, and his beautiful horse, Natalie who had intricate mosaics shaved into her flank. I enjoyed the company and the town, but since then I think Ali has maybe been pushed off his turf outside my hotel by Mohamed. They have watchers on me, because not 2 minutes after sitting down in KFC this morning, he was in there angrily harassing me because I slept in and missed the morning tour that we had “agreed upon.” Can’t blame them though I guess,  tourism is nonexistent now in Luxor; when Jaren leaves tomorrow, Ali said there’s only one older woman at another hotel and me in all Luxor for tourists. It’s kind of depressing actually, everything is dead: no one at the bar, no one at the restaurant, only a handful of Egyptian families in the hotel, who keep to themselves. I’ve found that if I’m accompanied by an Egyptian then I encounter fewer pushers, so if I can find Ali again or some other semi-decent guide, I’ll pay them well to show me the sites and cut out the scams for a few days.

Avenue of sphinxes extending kms from the Luxor Temple’s entrance, which was recently excavated and the overlying buildings demolished.

View from my room.

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7 thoughts on “KFC

  1. Cari M says

    Sounds like the combo of drizzlers and harrassers are diminishing some of the enjoyment. Stay healthy, and don't hesitate to hop on the train back to Cairo if it gets to be too much pressure supporting the entire tourism economy of Luxor!

  2. lmutch says

    I found some other tourists! Pretty much the first white people I've seen since leaving Cairo!

  3. Cari M says

    That is something most other white people have never experienced. It must feel very conspicuous and a bit vulnerable to be "one of these things that is not like the others".

  4. lmutch says

    It's not really that I feel that I don't belong, it's more I feel like I have a dollar sign tattooed on my forehead or something

  5. Tiara Mutch says

    Tough to be in the position where you are viewed as a dollar sign and a target for those trying to make a living (by ripping you off). It makes me sad that people are put in the position where they feel that have no other option than to lie, cheat and steal to survive. I have also experienced this and found it hard not to get a little bitter and guarded, though all you really want to do is be able to relate and exist along side the locals. Especially because I'm sure you want to help someone if you can, but you also have to take care of yourself and try to identify the people who are genuine and helpful. Good luck to you!

  6. Tiara Mutch says

    P.S. Loving the photos

  7. lmutch says

    Yeah it is hard to not get jaded for sure. Thankfully I met a really great guide who has made my experience here much more enjoyable and easy. Coming from you, that's a real compliment on the photos; my strategy is take a million and a few are bound to be good.


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